{"id":14,"date":"2014-10-03T10:50:00","date_gmt":"2014-10-03T10:50:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/2014\/10\/03\/luxury-to-sea-planes-to-boating-on-halong-bay\/"},"modified":"2014-11-21T18:48:46","modified_gmt":"2014-11-21T18:48:46","slug":"luxury-to-sea-planes-to-boating-on-halong-bay","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/2014\/10\/03\/luxury-to-sea-planes-to-boating-on-halong-bay\/","title":{"rendered":"Luxury to Sea Planes to Boating on Halong Bay"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Joan Baez Was here too<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
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Bouquet of Roses for Wellness<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

If you ever get ill while traveling, change all plans and go to the Sofitel Legend Metropole in Hanoi. The steps were to cancel a day in the hill country trudging down muddy primitive roads to visit various hill tribes to see their crafts and not wait for a night train trip to Hanoi. Instead we took to the road for a 5 hour drive on the new highway that just opened a few days ago from Lao Cai to Hanoi. Well, all of it wasn\u2019t finished on the Lao Cai side and the presence or non-presence of possible restroom stops was unknown, I just wanted to get out of hill country where every move you made required going up or down steps and having the fatigue of not only high altitude but an gut in panic. The hotel loaned us two good pillows and we set out , first, of course, winding back down the mountain to flatland. That\u2019s enough to curl anyone\u2019s hair. <\/span><\/div>\n

Frankly, I slept, of sort, sitting up, pillows on the window, and only had two urgent requests the whole route. When we arrived in the city of Hanoi – via the airport route – and yes, there is traffic but if you haven\u2019t been to China, you don\u2019t know jamming, and suddenly we entered tree line streets and thousands of people on motorcycles, mopeds and anything they could rig up to carry 2 dozen cages of chickens or even a small buffalo or stacks of metal pots. Fascinating Hanoi. When we pulled up to the classic Metropole Hotel, stopping point for celebrities as Noel Coward, Charlie Chaplin, Andre Ducamp to Joan Baez, millionaires and gold diggers, they had been warned of my condition. As I stepped out of the car, I was surrounded by Vietnamese young men in black uniforms and caps, one handing me a huge bouquet of red roses, beautiful Asian girls in long slim silk dresses with flowers in their hair, and managers and super managers all were there to get me to the number one room in the hotel (others were booked), the Somerset Maugham Suite where he spent lots of time writing his novels. I felt like Beyonce. As if I had an appetite, there was champagne, teas, French macaroons, chocolates, every kind of luxury, even a first floor patio  – if anyone could take the heat: note, Vietnam is HOT period.  <\/span>
Trying to be polite and thankful, which I was, I went into the bedroom part of the suite where there was an enormous pillowy bed and a TV with plenty of English channels, and flopped on the bed in a curled up position still in my clothes and fell asleep. What more could one ask for? This happened at the insistence of my travel agent A&K. <\/span><\/div>\n
Since all I had eaten in 36 hours was a Snickers, Jim made me go to High tea and high it was plus a long walk to the newer side of this legendary hotel passed a row of temptatious boutique Hermes, Cartier, Virtu, etc,  But I had to get something in the ole tummy. Luckily they had things like tiny ham and cheese, tuna, and egg salad sandwiches which i was able to get down. Sweets and fruits just seem abnoxious and I just wanted to get back to that amazing bed. Done. It was 3 p.m. Next time I saw day light was the next morning at 7 a.m. Jim said there was a flurry of concern and people checked on me now and then and the manager even left me a monogramed silk robe as a gift. Now this is a hotel. <\/span><\/div>\n
<\/span>I arose a bit better and was able to get down to breakfast (what an extraordinary selection of food buffet style) because I was meeting an old friend Susanne, an American in Hanoi since the 1990s when Americans were still not everyone\u2019s cup of tea much less a lone woman. She carved out her niche by giving contemporary artist a chance to show their work at first in her home and now in her new art gallery.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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Boarding the seaplane<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

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Then leaving big bags in hotel storage, we took a three nights worth of clothes in small bags and headed to the airport (I\u2019m beginning to dread airports ) but this domestic one was short and to the point and we were ushered through check in and security to the gate at the end where we were driven to a distance corner of the runway to board a seaplane. Wow. This was a first. The pilot was from Canada and the seaplane would take us to Halong Bay for a overnight boat safari through the amazing limestone pillars that are like Guilien\u2019s wonderful geographical creatures on steroids and in 1500 square miles of water. These 1969 \u201cislands\u201d would make a great hide and seek area in war time, and during the Vietnam War, Americans snuck into Halong Bay in kayaks to leave mines in the harbor, but they were not successful in wining anything.  Vietnam\u2019s naval fleet  were here but most of the fighting was on the Red river.  Hai Phong Harbor was supposedly recieving aid from Russia and China – particularly air missals to shoot at  B-52s which could fly up to 50,000 feet why the SAM (Surface to Air Missals  supplied by Russia) could only fly up to 40,000 feet. Although they shot down 25 B-52s, the war moved from here and there was no bombing in this area, mostly it was in Hanoi and southward. (Remember this used to be Northern Vietnam.) <\/span><\/div>\n
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Limestone Pinacles<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

I\u2019m all for seaplanes. What a super flight from Hanoi, the pilot gave us a tour of the limestone landscape from above, and then we landed in the water, swoosh, without a bump, and floated along aways around many sea going vessels and river-style boats, until we came to a special exit that looked like a wide place where you would bring up a rowboat. Well, without a murmur, the seaplane went from floating to wheels and we stopped on a designated concrete \u201crunway?\u201d  which was at Tuan Chau Marina. We disembarked into the heat and were led to a small \u2018holding area\u201d where drinks were served to us on low benches cum couches. New passengers (4) boarded the plane for the ride back to Hanoi and we boarded our private cruiser the Bhaya Legend. It is a two story boat with 3 bedrooms for passengers, each with a tiny deck but it\u2019s so hot in the middle of the <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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Onto the Bhaya Legend<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

day, it is impossible to sit outside. We were served a feast from corn soup, spring rolls, oysters, prawns, salads, and curry vegetables and fruit. I picked around. I just cannot eat these enormous meals that keep on coming. I don\u2019t understand how Asians are so thin when they eat so much food. However, between having to radically change my own diet this past month, and having the \u201ctrots\u201d for two days, I had lost ten pounds. Stuns me.<\/span><\/div>\n

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Fishing Boat<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

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The afternoon was cruising around the limestone rocks, mostly covered with green trees, and I\u2019m told, housing lemurs and gibbons. The bay is so smooth there is not a ripple as we pass, and you have to look out the window carefully to see if we are passing anything, whatever it is is being passed at a snails pace. There\u2019s lot of tourist activity as far as boats cruising this huge bay. Late in the afternoon we back into a tiny area of sand called Vung Ha Beach, although we were a pretty good haul from the beach. Only Jim had the energy to swim ashore, where he found bits of broken white coral and caves and still the energy to swim back. I cannot explain how peaceful this stillness is. It\u2019s a bit too hot to sit outside and so each quarter is air-conditioned. There is a super bed, a large bathroom with shower and tub, and always a view off the deck. It is paneled in bamboo an has ample lighting. No wi-fi, which may be a good thing. And for the first time on this trip, after requesting it, I was able to get a glass of crushed ice. Hallelujah. Cold is good (although Asians think only \u201chot\u201d is good for the body, soul and energy.) <\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
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At Last a cool moment<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

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Sunset over the Pinnacles<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

<\/span>As the sun began to slide down behind the limestone pillars, we were able to go atop to the deck where there are wicker lounge chairs in front of the wheel house where the captain stands. Then as we arrive at our pre-destined spot to throw down anchor for the night, we watch as other boats, some carrying up to 80 passengers, arrive and also anchor in this area. By dark, it was like a light festival. The half moon was right above and there were stars, something I haven\u2019t seen in awhile. Amazing were the little motor boats that took off from the big river boats and headed into the dark with no light. I asked why and was told back in the rocks was a tiny home were they could buy fresh fish. Trade survives anywhere there is a need. I attempted to squid fish (you stand at the edge of the boat with a plane ole bamboo pole and a bright green lure with hooksand with the area lighted with spotlights, the squid are supposed to jump onto the spinner hook. Well, my patience wasn\u2019t as patient as the squids non-interest in getting hooked. So that was a zero. And I turned in for the night in this Halong Bay. There was beautiful peace on these still waters that cannot be replicated anywhere.<\/span><\/div>\n

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Joan Baez Was here too Bouquet of Roses for Wellness If you ever get ill while traveling, change all plans… read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":364,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/IMG_2411.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/364"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/audreytaylorgonzalez.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}